DIY bath restoration

Bathroom - the most important attribute of any modern apartment, private house. Here they wash, wash clothes, relax after a hard day, because this room needs maximum comfort, and the bathing tank itself should have a beautiful, tidy appearance. A full-fledged do-it-yourself bath restoration will be much cheaper than buying a new one.

Features

The old "Soviet" bathtubs of cast iron, steel, which have served for more than a dozen years, eventually become covered with rust, roughness, lose their luster. Cover with time erased, cracked. But it is not always possible to restore the top layer - a badly damaged product will have to be changed.

How to determine the condition of the bath:

  • if the surface was once completely white, and now in several places or over the entire area it is yellow-brown, red, has a rough texture, small cracks, chipped, then coating with acrylics and enamel will give the product a new life;
  • when the body is seriously cracked, deformed, large chipping is noticeable around the drain, the diameters of the recently replaced pipes are very different from the size of the drain hole, it is useless to renew such capacity, it is easier to clean it, replacing it with a new, more suitable one.

Why you should try to restore the "bath" by yourself:

  • new capacity is quite expensive;
  • complete dismantling of the old bath is a very troublesome task;
  • services of the master, invited to restore the product, are also not cheap;
  • a can of paint for a bath of standard dimensions is quite a bit, although it is more expensive than ordinary dyes applied to walls, floors, etc.

The application of the dye during independent work differs from the technologies used in production - at the factory the bath is heated, powder is sprayed on it, which melts due to the high temperature, forming a durable enamel.

Restoration methods - their advantages, disadvantages

There are several ways to restore the bath:

  • brush enamel application;
  • acrylic coating - bulk version;
  • installation of a special liner.

It is easiest for a newcomer who has encountered such work for the first time to use the bulk method - it is simple to perform and intuitive. Paint with a brush, with a certain skill, will also turn out well, and the acquisition of a suitable acrylic insert can be a serious problem, especially for non-standard designs.

Step-by-step guide for enamel bath restoration

Before you start restoring the bathing capacity with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the painting technology in order to minimize the number of errors - the result is not always good the first time.

What do we have to do:

  • buy tools, materials, protection;
  • prepare the tank itself;
  • apply enamel;
  • wait until dry.

During repair, toxic, strongly smelling substances are used, because the protection of hands, eyes, respiratory organs from their effects must be taken care of in advance.

Required materials, tools

For work you will need:

  • liquid coating - two-component epoxy enamel, the base of which is mixed with a hardener just before application to the surface;
  • soda - with its help the tank is degreased;
  • drill with special grinding nozzle - to remove the old cover;
  • hard, flat brush, preferably made of natural bristle, 7-9 cm wide;
  • two cans of glass, with a capacity of 0.5 liters - the dye will be diluted in them;
  • measuring cup to accurately determine the desired amount of hardener;
  • solvent - 646 is better suited, it is added to enamel to increase its fluidity;
  • personal protective equipment - overalls, gloves, respirator, special glasses.

What enamel to choose

High-quality enamel will last as long as possible, from exposure to water, high temperatures will not lose color, shine, will not crack too quickly.

When choosing, consider:

  • a way of drawing - an aerosol spray, brush, roller, in bulk method. When using a roller, an texture is created on the surface, an aerosol is used to mask local defects, a brush and a filling method are used most widely;
  • type of kit - the best possible restoration kit, which has all the tools necessary to prepare the surface for work, applying the composition;
  • enamel color - it is desirable that it differs from the previous one by a maximum of one or two tones, otherwise the “old” layer will show through;
  • hardener color - it is recommended to use white or transparent, as the color can leave ugly spots.

Preparation for applying enamel

What you need to do to cover the bath enamel:

  • apply a powdered detergent (cleaner), on top of which to produce a grinder with an emery wheel, a drill with a grinding nozzle, emery stick, etc .;
  • degrease the surface to be treated with a liquid detergent, especially for cracks, various irregularities, chips;
  • rinse the tank thoroughly and long with hot water;
  • wipe the bath dry with a clean cloth;
  • remove overflow, siphon, clean the surface under them, remove excess vacuum cleaner;
  • then you can apply the first enamel layer.

During the removal of the old cover a large amount of dust is formed, so it is advisable to take care in advance to protect the eyes, hands, respiratory organs.

Enamel coating

The process of applying enamel consists of several steps:

  • the introduction of the hardener in the composition;
  • Partial coloring of the side with a flat brush;
  • then draw a "fat" vertical line to the bottom, then smear the paint horizontally;
  • repeat the previous two steps until the entire surface has been painted.

The drying time of one layer is about 70 minutes, it is allowed to fully use the bath in 6-8 days. It is not necessary to artificially reduce the drying time of each layer - this often leads to deformations, deteriorating the overall look.

All work is carried out in a heated room, and before starting work, it is desirable to warm the container with hot water.

Master class updates using acrylic

Many are now trying to cover the bath with liquid acrylic, although this coating is more expensive than enamel. The product acquires an aesthetic appearance, it is safe even for delicate baby skin. Pathogenic microbes do not settle in a qualitatively applied acrylic layer, since there are almost no pores in this polymer. Acrylic layer with careful care will last more than five years (maximum - 12-15), without loss of appearance.

Other advantages of acrylic cover:

  • allows you to save on the purchase of new capacity;
  • acrylic bath will be perfectly smooth, pleasant to the touch, but not slippery;
  • the material greatly simplifies the care of the product - it will be enough to periodically wash it with a soft sponge with a liquid, gel-like detergent;
  • acrylic does not smell - protecting the skin, respiratory organs, clothing during dyeing is not needed, airing the room is also not required in most cases;
  • when done correctly, after hardening the mixture, the surface has a smooth tone without any stains, unnecessary inclusions.

Materials, tools

From tools, materials may be needed:

  • large sandpaper or grinder;
  • soda or cleaning powder of a similar type;
  • iron brush;
  • putty for metal;
  • industrial dryer (significantly speeds up the process);
  • rags;
  • acetone;
  • plastic cup (it is substituted for the drain);
  • rubber spatula;
  • Special bulk acrylic composition for coating baths.

An old waste layer is scraped off with an emery paper, a block, a grinder, after which the formed dust is removed.

How to choose acrylic for bath restoration

The modern market offers the broadest selection of acrylic compounds suitable for cast iron, metal baths. If desired, pigments of various colors are added to the polymer mixture - the color is chosen according to your taste, in accordance with the existing, planned design of the surrounding interior.

What formulations are most commonly used:

  • stakril - the universal material demanding accuracy when drawing;
  • plastol - suitable for not too worn baths, retains fluidity up to 90 minutes, polymerizes in 36 hours, the cover comes out high-quality, but less durable than made of stakril;
  • ekovanna-lux - has no smell, possesses excellent covering ability, it is applied on a metal, plastic surface, completely dries in a day;
  • schungite acrylic - available in black.

Some manufacturers create coatings with antimicrobial effect. When buying, you should pay attention to the shelf life - when the acrylic composition is too old, the results of its use will not be too good, due to the decrease in adhesion. The applied layer can simply "fall off" from the base.

What is stakril, its advantages

Stakril - the liquid acrylic structure used for drawing in the bulk way. It requires pre-application of putty, careful preparation of the site of application, is very sensitive to the effects of moisture. This is the most qualitative composition, which can be tinted with different pigments, but diluted with solvents is not recommended - opacity is lost, the layer turns out to be excessively thin. The material retains its fluidity up to 60-70 minutes, completely freezes in 48-96 hours. Stakril has a strong smell, because after the end of the work the room is aired.

The main advantages of such a coating are a perfectly smooth, durable surface, excellent appearance of the finished product, durability, and durability. It will be difficult for a beginner to work with glass, but it is he who allows to get the best results.

This composition must be thoroughly mixed to avoid the formation of clots.

Application of acrylic on the prepared surface

Before applying acrylic, the old enamel, along with bloom, rust, dirt, is removed - the bath should be as smooth as possible. To do this, use a coarse sandpaper or grinding machine. After you need to completely wash away the formed dust, dry all the places, for which it is best to use a building dryer. Since there will be a lot of dust, you should use a respirator and goggles when working. After clearing the tank degreased with acetone.

The process of work itself looks like this: the polymer mixture is poured thickly onto the sides of the bath, gradually flows down, fixed on all surfaces, forming a beautiful, even cover. For filling use a can from under the hardener or any plastic bottle, slightly smearing the liquid with a spatula. Acrylic fills all the existing pores, cracks, scratches, which creates the appearance of a completely new bath. Modern acrylic coating freezes in about one, maximum three to four days, unlike mixtures that were widely used several years ago.

The insert installation manual is the fastest, easiest way to restore.

The installation of a thin liner made of special acrylic does not require serious experience, but the product itself cannot be bought anywhere else. Inserts for bathtubs with standard parameters are searched for on large construction markets (such things are not sold in the usual household goods store), they are ordered from companies specializing in the restoration of bathing tanks.

Acrylic insert completely repeats the inner contours of the bath, putting it on, tightly fitting, gluing with special glue, waterproof silicone, a two-component mixture. Such products are most often used to upgrade the bath in a rented apartment or when there is no opportunity to buy a new one right now, and the old one is terribly tired. The result here is obtained as quickly as possible - in just a couple of hours, and a quality, properly glued product will last more than 9-12 years.

What you need to know when performing work on the installation of the liner:

  • the product is made of medical or technical acrylic, simple or double-layer plastic;
  • high-quality liner can not be cheap, as well as very transparent, easy to bend;
  • the size of the product must clearly correspond to the size of the stationary structure - voids formed due to the difference in the dimensions of the bath and the insert must not be filled with assembly foam or other composition. If it is impossible to accurately select the liner, it is ordered in accordance with the size or use a different method of restoration;
  • if the product is planned to be installed in a room where there is a very expensive, beautiful, new tile on the walls, it is better to choose another option, as part of the tile will have to be dismantled.

Begin work should be with the selection of the insert, the purchase of consumables - glue, foam, sealants. When the container is decorated with corners, they are removed, the tile adjacent to the bath is cut one to two cm. Up along the entire perimeter. Next, the cement sides, corners are removed, the overflow and drain grids are removed, and the siphon is removed. The old bath is carefully polished with sandpaper, the edges of the acrylic tab also sometimes require trimming.
Now there are places for drainage, overflow, slots of the appropriate size are carefully made.

The most important stage - sticking liner. The entire surface of the old bath smeared with special glue, near the drain-overflow apply sealant. Next, the insert is gently inserted into the container, pressed, fixed with grating holes, special clips on the sides. At the end of the installation, a wall is drawn around the product - for example, a narrow ceramic tile border is glued. Bath filled with water, almost to the level of overflow, leave to dry for 12-18 hours. It is not necessary to remove the protective film.

Correction of small chips, scratches

In the smallest cracks, scratches, chipped bath cover, most of the known microbes can hide; it is very difficult to remove and wash them out, but removing and smoothing the irregularities is easily doable at home. If the chipping is not removed in time, its sharp edges can cause injury during washing, the cracks have the properties to gradually expand, branch out under the influence of water, capturing all new “territories”.
Scratches are easily polished with special, intended means for the restoration of enamel or painted over. Chips - a more difficult case, they must first be puttied to get a smooth plane. Before finishing the bath is cleaned of dirt, the damaged area is polished, puttied with a two-component epoxy composition, applied in several layers. After complete drying, the surface is ground once more, one or two layers of enamel are sprayed from the can on top.

How to care for a bathroom without harm to cover

Products with different covers are cleaned in various ways:

  • cast iron enameled - use only "gentle" chemistry, containing the minimum amount of chlorine. Iron sponges are prohibited, because of them enamel becomes thinner, destroyed
  • steel enameled - poorly tolerate excessively hot water in combination with detergents, as well as sudden temperature changes. Hard sponges, washcloths are also undesirable;
  • acrylic - it is permissible to use only soft sponges, special pasty, gel-like detergents. Any funds for alcohol, chlorine, acetone, abrasive powders should not be used. Vinegar is rarely used, and soda should be replaced with lemon juice.

To acrylic "bath" served for a long time, it is impossible to pour boiling water into it, throw sharp, heavy objects (pieces of brick in the repair, knives, other iron tools).

If you properly care for your own renovated bathroom, it will last a very long time, while maintaining an excellent appearance.

Conclusion

Restoring an old home bath is available to almost everyone - with all the necessary tools and materials, it’s easy to do it yourself. The modern paint and varnish industry offers a huge variety of materials of any color to refresh the bath. When self-repair is problematic, the whole process of product restoration is entrusted to professionals who will do it quickly, efficiently.

Watch the video: EKOPEL 2K Bath Resurfacing & Bath Re-Enamelling (March 2024).

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